Songs and Pictures on the Revolutionary Land
The sounds of water are still when it gently flows and few people realize its power. The riverside is flanked by mountains that seem like extending steeply the sky as slashing of chopper and axe. You cannot help amazing this cutting which is truly cleaved by water and mountains.
How many years has been the matching of nature continuing? We have no answer but nothing short of assumption because it is extremely ancient and magnificent. Nevertheless, it seems that there is a witness in ChiShui River Valley, which feels like a fighting under a sight of the third people.
This witness is Alsophila Spinulosa that is a type of the Cyathea and the relict plant of Age Dinosaurs. Dinosaurs die out but the plant has survived in wonder for 200 million years. Although to the edge of extinction, it grows well in ChiShui River Valley and is called "Ancient living fossil" by scientists.
One day in March, I came to ChiShui River Valley and entered into National Cyathea Spinulosa Nature Reserve that is described as Jurassic park in China. To be honest, most pictures of Jurassic which are from the American film of Jurassic Park that is untamed and dangerous.
Hollywood has a great of talents in this field, whatever how far away from us, past and future, science and technology and abundant imagination to make frames vividly. I stood in front of a group of Alsophila Spinulosas. Jurassic in film was combined with natural one, which scene was now true, now mirage in my mind . Suddenly I did not know where I was.
Then I thought it might be a tragedy of modern man. We were infatuated with mirage but ignored true life. However, Alsophila Spinulosa has its own charming. What living and swaying that it is a dancer that crossing the time, and an airy in Jurassic, she shows herself by her green, tenacious gesture and a dense canopy. Most of them extend a hairy head, and some extend two or three even four heads and peek at me cautiously.
I realized this sight that seemed like a silent old man who you could communicate with him thought his sight and wrinkles. Alsophila Spinulosa's eyes and wrinkles are in trunk that is black, as is burnt by the fire of Heaven. That is why her eyes were concealed beneath the layer of skin. I approached an Alsophila Spinulose that is thousands years old.
The mean annual growth of Alsophila Spinulosa is less than one centimeter but this one is more than nine meters. I carefully opened her eyelids that are not rough. I felt that fingers were given a warming, nourishing sensation.A millennial Alsophila Spinulosa tells me by her eyes that more than 100 kilometers from here that is a place called Zigong where has a group of dinosaurs often visit ChiShui River Valley in the past……
I know dinosaurs whose fossils are now dug and display at exhibition hall in the museum. Although dinosaurs turn fossils, it is my firm conviction that their heads also face Chishui river valley. Do they covet food or are they eager for existing?
In fact, in the late 20th century, some mysterious vestiges were found on some rocks at Datong in Chishui. Through dinosaur experts in Zigong identified these vestiges were considered as footprints of large dinosaurs. How could a river get red?This is only a coincidence for the four times of crossing Chishui River and the Red Army rescues from desperation. This is a geographical concept.
There is a sheet of red soil in the whole Sichuan basin including Chongqin. Dalou Mountain slopes away towards the north to form the vast Danxia landform. Chishui River is not only a political boundary but also a geological connection. There must be a connection between the red soil of basin and Danxia landform of plateau.
Chishui River is clear and bright but red background reflects the colour red in the river. Dinosaur and alsophila spinulosa have a red background. Where does exist such a large area of the cyathea group, excepting Chishui river valley?
40 thousand alsophila spinulosas are not too much but for a Jurassic park, just a park that of is extravagance. I heard from my friends that the alsophila spinulosa in Kunming Botanical Garden is dug from Chishui. Transplantation of alsophila spinulosa is not easy.
Someone makes an experiment that an alsophila spinulosa move to slope in Chishui River Vallely. The alsophila spinulosa hardly survives. Maybe because of its persistence, it avoids the disaster that dinosaurs die out.
However the botanical garden succeeds finally. From primordial valley to modern city, alsophila spinulosa forgoes what is within reach and seeks after unreachable things to face the world for passing information or a proof that she is spiritual.
I was amazed that such wonderful thing will inhabit the Chishui River Valley, and that the Chishui River Valley can breed such wonderful things.
Of course, there is not only alsophila in Chishui River Valley that is just like an eye, such as the Eye of the poem or eye of play, which let a person to refresh his mind.
And in a few years, the Chishui has got the recognition of experts and scholars, it has been identified as National Alsophila Nature Reserve, China Jurassic Park, and also identified as National Key Scenic Spots, National Ecological Construction Demonstration Area, National Bamboo Sea Forest Park and Hometown of Chinese bamboo, and there is obviously a broader and more profound spirit in Chishui.
In the four days in Chishui, I have a new movement about every new place where I have been to, whether natural or humanistic, would always make me excited.
Sidong Valley, which bears four waterfalls hang on a valley, this is the earliest scenic spots of Chishui. As the name suggests, it means four of waterfalls are on the same river valley. The valley is not broad where many bamboos live on the hillside of the valley, and lays many huge stones in the ravine. The flow of water hit the rocks and stirred up many waves, and makes the scene as fascinating songs and pictures.
Upstream, in a flat beachhead, a lobular shrub almost covers the entire surface of the water. Looking carefully, you can find that each of the shrubs holds a stone.
This shrub is called Water Lion Wood. The locals did the experiment that transplanted the water lion wood to the soil, but it was not viable to live in soil, which phenomenon is a special scene in Sidong Valley.
But these are just a kind of embellishment, like the Heavenly Stone, Water Pipe Tree, Gender Tree, Pearl Skirt, although these are rare but finally are foil, speaking of the real protagonist, it still should be waterfall.
The waterfall of Sidong Valley can represent the title "City of Thousand waterfalls" of Chishui in particular. Don't mention to the beauty of Moon Lake, the charm of the Curtain Cave, also does not mention to the alive of Flying Frog Rock, the grand of White Dragon Lake, bears the vigour of lake the same as Dragon. The size of waterfalls in Sidong valley is similar and the distance of waterfalls is not near, and they are evenly placed in a ditch to let people think there is a kind of providence and minds of God in the Sidong valley.
The waterfalls are like four different syllables, which compose slow-wandering music in the valley. In the tour of the great waterfalls, such as Huangguoshu Falls and A Miles Long Cave Waterfall, when you only have lucky enough, you can appreciate their beauty.
If you are traveling in the dry season, it would be boring that you cannot feel the scene "the waterfall is rushing directly downward from very high, seemingly the Milky Way fells from the heaven ". But the Sidong Valley is different. It also has momentum, but was not momentary brilliant that is the only reason.
Even if in the dry season, it has a melody in the world as long as there is a little bit water in the flow. Therefore, when you are traveling to Sidong River, you can go sightseeing not only by looking, but also listening.
In many scenes of Sidong valley, you should use your ears to hear the beautiful scene. It gives person the feeling of purity, when you walk through it, you can feel your life is vulgar and slovenly, which offers a kind of purify and sublimation to a person.
The development of Swallow Crag is a little late, comparing to Sidong Valley. Listening to guide, I know that vice Mayor, the charge of tourism of the Chishui, ties safety wire at his waist to find a path at steep cliffy. Thus the development of Swallow Crag had a higher start due to this reason.
Walking on the scenic spot, we hardly saw artificial signs in Swallow Crag. There was no rock inscription. Even if stools, provided convenience to tourists, which were made of a thick Moso and supported sideways by two smaller Moso on two sides, putting these on wayside or under the tree as like striding stake. All of details in Swallow Crag are kept natural feather as best they could. We had a feeling that was in the depth of mountains and forests when walked up the river and mountain.
Decaying woods put in irregular, and vines and trees entwine at each other, and bamboo flowers. These wonders of existence and death are a common sight in primordial forest. I found many trees which grew up straight and thin in bamboo and tree mixed forest. After thinking carefully, I finally understood the truth of natural selection and survival of the fittest of Darwin.
These trees only grow as high as bamboo's height to welcome the strong sunlight to become large and strong with unruffled calm when fate arranges them grow up with bamboo. The waterfall of Swallow Crag hangs high in the peak and covers the half of mountains.
We were out of breath after climbing up from valley. Suddenly, a peal of thunder roared above our heads as wind in the sky and rain in the sea. We looked up the sky which was not only magnificent but was so compelling.
A path of the cliffy across the back of the waterfall, and we changed another angle to see it which was dreamy, ethereal and elegant. There is a grotto in a side of waterfall where a group of swallows in the cliffy. That was reason why its name was Swallow Crag.
瀑布的另一边则有一个洞穴,高矮宽窄正可以容人,山水淅沥不断,这就是“生命之源”。人与自然,牵丝网线,有多么神妙!There is a cave on the waterfall's other side that can seat a person. Natural water is falling which was "the source of life". The relationship of man and nature links closely as silk and net. What a magical thing!
Keeping to a group of stone steps, we climbed up the cliffy from a crevice of cliffy. The large waterfall was trampled our feet. We never realized that there were more days outside the sky, and there was a higher mountain outside the mountain. There was another waterfall that is not so large but its shape is graceful and charm as Guan Yin seated a lotus.
You climb up the cliffy but you cannot come to the real top. Standing the cliffy and looking back on our way, we overlooked lofty mountains and suddenly shouted a few times, as if we had power, and through the torrent of life we stood up in heaven and earth at once.
We came to Renyou River in the afternoon with a little exhaustion. The ferry is under an old banyan whose side has several rounds and towering boulders that are carved some words similar to "be zealous for public interests". The using of the place was "the service of crossing" that meant free crossing.
We went on board, head the dip of oars and saw the stream but still had no energy. However, we got ashore and walked along a stream to enter to a mountain, when all of a sudden, a chunk of reds in front of our eyes. We were stupefied for a while and uplifted energy.
Maybe it is Chishui's glamour. Every mountain is different and scenery is also varied in beauty .But reeds that I learned it from literature as Baiyangdian, Reed Beds. This sight appears in Chishui's stream, which made us surprising. These reeds blocked our wide vision so that we watched our steps cautiously.
A track is still paved by Danxia stone similar to Sidong Valley and Swallow Crag, and some parts cut directly from a huge Danxia stone. However, in a chunk of vast and hazy reeds, the track that stretches straight head in red and revealed a visible sign caught our eyes particularly.
Even this is a stream, and its flowing is still very large. The stream is crystal clear and rhythmic sound of water that seems from the depth of our soul, warming and poetry. We walked out reeds and went in a while to come to a precipice. There are a great of roots that nearly cover the whole cliffy. This is famous scenery--"Root Groves".
Following roots, we found a banyan that is not large on the edge of cliffy. Its existence seems like totally for roots. This way is an inversion or transcended traditional rule. That made us confused, but also admired its masterpiece.
It is a sculpture of waterfall and always solidifies in the lonely space and time; it is an explanation of root and all brilliance is for the growth of roots; it is a proof of will and it could grow up without hesitation as soon as a goal was decided, even it is over horizon.
To be frank, a scenery especially natural landscape that only attracts your heart. It is not necessary to give the landscape grave means. But under the background of landscape's development that I know more or less, I might recall the people and these things on purpose or not.
This condition, to the later especially I saw the vast stretch of bamboos, becomes a kind of obsession. Is Roots Groves and Bamboo Groves correspondence and epitome of the people and these things?
I walked on cold and silent track in landscape and faced those sturdy and tall Moso bamboos. My eyes flashed some lingering known and unknown shadows dancing in heaven and earth and in travelled and coming rode as fairy.
In my mind, the man is the product of culture. Therefore, facing the nature which equals to confront oneself as well as finding of poetry of nature meant man's one. So we are in nature and could not get rid of it and of course do not need to be rid of it.
For example, 100 years ago, the Huang's brothers rose money to develop Sidong Valley. And in the new period, a local secretary named Yang who skimped on his food and other necessities and advanced more than four thousand Yuan to continue to exploit Sidong Valley.
Workers of Tangxing Forestry Centre who had only 100 Yuan each month, under the leading of former director of the farm, exploited Swallow Crag by a speed of development of Shenzhen, hard work for 3 months.
And another example that self-employed named Chen who invested hard-earned hundred thousand Yuan to Tiantai Mountain. He wanted to carve another "the Giant Stone Buddha at Leshan mountain" resulted in marital crisis. His wife said "Buddha is yours, and things at home are mine" in court. These are a group and phenomenon in Chishui.
If looking at in isolation, we recalled the story of Hersbit. If without the spirit of Bianhe, who could know these peculiar sceneries come from distant mountain area of Chishu.
In fact all things are not isolated, whatever a gift of history or a glimpse of age, whatever a sentiment of nature or subconscious cohesion, everyone has a same thought to think and make concerted efforts to do so that Alsophila Spinulosa exists in mountains and rivers forever and its forest coverage rate reached more than 70% and the thousands of waterfalls sing a day and night……
This is not only my sentiment. Everyone who comes to Chishui has that move. As I know that a leader of Chishui went here as soon as he had free time as hung himself to Chishui. He travelled the mountains and rivers in Chishui. After came back to Chishui, as soon as he saw a writer or painter he said "You should go to Chishui--" and reeled of these sceneries.
His affection and understanding for Chishui make people inspiring and yearning. But this time, I could not visit the whole Chishui after all. Facing abundant and broad and profound Chishui, my mind is so small and could not take so much of it.
My writing is not good. Although I write down its beauty, I only write its one point and left out ten thousand of it. I only try my best to go on.To Datong ancient town, to feel the Chishui prized their history;
to Bing’anthat a tree is built on a huge Danxia rock, to experience tough and gentle spirit of the Chishui; to Rock Tombs of Eastern Han Dynasty, to touch ancient culture of the Chishui……
I bade farewell to friends who saw me off and returned. Car ran along straight cement road on the bank of Chishui. Looked to magnificent Chishui river, green hills on both sides and fantastic valleys--
I suddenly remembered a prophetic poet of Liu boweng: "Hundreds of rivers in area of Jiangnan, thousands of mountains in Guizhou and Yunnan, in 500 years, sceneries of Guizhou and Yunnan superior the area of Jiangnan's. Do these sceneries answer what he said?
The car passed Fengxi Crossroags. A guide board at a fork in the road pointed A Miles Long Cave Waterfall. I was stunned a moment and realized I should have visited there at this time.
I travelled there about 10 years ago. The charm of big waterfall has imprinted my brain and the roar of it has resounded as shouts of a thousand years in silence……
This is a sound that is heard by the world.