雀鸟鸣唱的旅程
The Journey of the Sparrow's Song
我在田野上飘荡,像一阵风,也像一片云。看着金子般灿烂的油菜花,看着青幽幽的山峦,看着农家虽不辉煌却也从容自适的屋瓦,听风吹树、雨打萍,听小河的水哗哗地从谷底流向远方……
I wander over the fields like a wind and a cloud. Looking the golden rape flowers and the dark cyan mountains, looking at the farmhouse, though it was not brightly, also has peaceful and comfortable from the roofing tile, listening to the sound of wind blowing trees, the rains hit sound of duckweed, and listen the water of the river in the bottom flowed to the distant.......
我就感觉到一种诉说,好像在一种又高远又深刻的背景上有一个灵魂正挤眉弄眼给你暗示着什么。而这时候,你只要谛听,心的谛听,你就可以像一个医生那样拿着血压计听诊器什么的,真正感觉到一种生命的脉动。
I feel like it's a telling, likes there is a soul on a high and profound background that's winking at you and giving you hints. And then, all you have to listen and listen with your heart and you can be like a doctor with a sphygmomanometer or stethoscope and really feel the pulse of life.
都儒向黄都,这个“都,其实是从一个镇到另一个镇。只是都儒作为县城所在地 ,确也沾了那么一点“都”的味儿,我不知道自己为什么要到这个地方来。“务、正、道,吓一跳。”
Duru town to Huangdu town, the "Du", actually, the "Du" is from one town to another town. But as the county seat, Duru is indeed stained with a little feeling of "Du". I don't know why I came to this place. ''Wuchuan, Zheng'an, Daozhen, these three counties are famous for poverty.''
务川首当其冲。十二年前,为了写《藏在深山里的洞》,我徒步考察芙蓉江,就曾经在这里逗留。是当地人的自嘲,还是外来者的轻贱?“老人公穿儿媳妇的裤儿———‘误穿爷”,有一句俗谚就这么在民间流传。
Wuchuan is the first bear the brunt. Twelve years ago, in order to write "A Hole in The Deep Mountain", I walked to inspect the Furong River, and once stayed here. Is it the self-deprecation of the locals or the slights on the outsiders? "The old people wears his daughter-in-law's trousers - 'Wuchuan[1]'," a common saying goes around the country.
那时候 ,我有一个感觉是在哪家坐下来哪人就不想动,不想出门 ,不想上街。但我还是去了一趟离县城几十里地的汞矿,看整个生产工艺流程,听介绍那些胆大包天的贩子如何把水银朱砂什么的藏汽车的内胎里偷运出境,便隐约觉得这大概就是这地方的骄傲。
At that time, I had a feeling that where I sat, I didn’t want to move, to go out, and go to the streets. But I went to a mercury mine that was dozens of miles away from the county town, I watched the entire production process, and I heard the peoples say that those daring traffickers hide the mercury cinnabar in the inner tube of the car and then smuggle it out. Then, I vaguely feel that this is probably the pride of this place.
后来,水银朱砂的生意不好做哪,矿山沉寂哪 ,这里成了国家级贫困县 ,确也“当之无愧”。
Afterwards, the business of mercury cinnabar does not do well, as the mines gradually became scarce: it became a state-level poverty-stricken county, which was indeed "well-deserved".
黔北地区几多怪,贫困帽儿争着戴,这是众所周知的。想当初,一个县的县委书记为了争这帽儿,在省人民代表大会上向省长提意见,声情并茂,催人泪下,终于弄了一个“比照贫困县”的待遇。
As is known to all, "It's a bit strange in Northern Guizhou, where people are proud of their poverty". Thinking about the past, a county party secretary in order to compete for this old hat, the county party committee secretary of a county gave advice to the governor at the provincial people’s congress, and it was full of emotions and tears. Get a treatment of "compare Poverty County" in final.
我那时候很感慨,中国文化“人穷志短 ,马瘦毛长”,把经济发展水平和一个人的精气神连在一起。可我们这些县的领导不忌讳、不偏见 ,能够正视现实,只要地方上得到的实惠多一些,老百姓的日子好过一些,哪怕受一点委屈,却也心甘情愿啊。
At that time, I was deeply impressed by the fact that Chinese culture is "Poverty stifles ambition", which connects the level of economic development with people's spirit. But the leaders of our county are free from any taboo or prejudice and they can face the reality. As long as the localities get more benefits, the lives of ordinary people are better, even if they are aggrieved, they are willing.
如果说改革开放给这块土地带来了观念的变化 ,那么最有说服力的,就是人们对“穷”的看法。即使捉襟见肘,也用不着破帽遮颜。不像“大跃进”那工夫“放卫星”,“人有多大胆,地有多大产”,害死多少人。
If reform and opening up have brought about changes in the concept of this land, the most persuasive is people's view of "poverty". You need not save face even if you're down and out. Unlike the "Great Leap Forward" of "launch satellites" and "How bold are people and how productive they are", and how many people were killed by these words.
没有“穷”的包袱 ,自然也没有“穷”的委顿。而且,只有清醒地认识到“穷”,才会穷起直追,真正改变“穷”的面貌……
There is no baggage of "poor", and certainly no tired of "poor". Moreover, only when the "poor" is clearly recognized to peoples, immediately and try to catch up they will act immediately and try to catch up and really change the face of "poor"...
我不是冲着这里的“穷”来的。况且,如今的都儒,务川县城所在地,已经很难看见当年的影子哪。就像那个神奇的传说,二十八宿中女宿———婺星掉在这个山谷里,旧的毁灭,新的产生,为了纪念这个惊天动地的变化。是不是这个缘故呢?
I'm not here for it’s "poverty". Besides, today's Duru, the location of Wuchuan county, it is difficult to see the shadow of those years. Like that magical tale, Twenty-eight stars' Women Star that is Wu Star (Women Star) fell in this valley, in order to commemorate these earth-shaking changes. The old destroyed and the new born. Is that the reason?
生活在这爿山地上的人骨子里就有一种追新求变的东西。吉普车在山梁上盘旋着往下落,十二年哪,我又一次来到这个地方。
There is the something pursuit of innovation and change in nature of the citizen who live in the Pan Mountains. The jeep spirals down over the ridge. Twelve years later, I'm here again.
隐隐约约的,我听着两声有节奏的“嘟”“嘟”响过,掏出电话来,便看见爱立信显示屏CHN CTMC下面梯一样五道竖杠。
Vaguely, as I listened to two rhythmic beeps, I pulled out my phone and saw the word CHN CTMC on Ericsson's display screen, with five vertical poles like ladders underneath.
那瞬间,我有一个奇异的感觉,一片暮色浓浓包裹,我又回到早晨出发的地方———也一样地坐落在山谷里的城市。不是吗,麦哲伦走直线,却最终还是走了一个圈。
For a moment, I had a strange feeling that wrapped in the thick twilight, and I was back where I had left in the morning that the same city in the valley. Isn't it? Magellan walked in a straight line, but he ended up going all the way around.
世界很大,其实也很小,丰富多样,却也并无太大的差别———哪一座城市不是用钢筋水泥构筑的?吉普车落到谷底,很快又行进在宽阔笔直的大街上。The world is extremely big, actually very small, rich and varied, but there is no big difference -- which city is not built of reinforced concrete? The jeep reached the bottom of the valley and soon moved along the wide, straight street.
我眼前是林立的高楼,看见一家宾馆,我进去看了看,又往前走；又看见一家宾馆,又进去看了看,又往前走；这么着走了好几家,终于在银河宾馆安顿下来。梦一样的,我看着那些西装革履的“广客”来来去去,听着他们凑着“大哥大”打着广味的普通话,唠嗑着生意,竟不知身在何处。
My eyes were full of tall buildings and I saw a hotel. I went in and looked at this, after that I went on. I saw another hotel. I went in and looked and went on. So I walked several hotels and finally I settled in the Galaxy Hotel. Like a dream, I watched the men in suits come and go, listening to them took their "Mobile phone" talking business in Cantonese Mandarin, and I didn't know where I was.
夜里,我站在十字大街气派明亮的高杆灯下,我不敢相信这就是务川———那个十二年前猥琐的小城。但现在,是不是天上有一些星星掉了下来?这的确就是务川。
At night, I stood under the tall and brightly lit lantern in the cross street. I can't believe that this is the town of Wuchuan, that wretched town twelve years ago. But now, did some stars fall out of the sky? This is indeed the case of Wuchuan.
虽有些出乎意料,却也是真正的不虚此行。但事情好像并不这样简单,我还要走下去。有时候,一个人的行动是没有什么道理的,尽管我们可以给出很多说法来,到底也不过是一种解释而已。
It was a little bit unexpected, but the trip had been well worthwhile. But things do not seem so simple, I have to keep going. Sometimes, a person's actions are not unreasonable, although we can give a lot of explanations, in the end it is just an explanation.
比如说,这也是我曾经想过的,二十世纪九十年代发生在这爿山地上最大的事件,当数“撤区并乡”。“这山没得那山高,那山顶上好葡萄”。
For example, that is also what I once thought, it happened in this part of the mountain area in the 1990s, the biggest event, is "All administrative districts of the county were abolished and the units at the town level in the former administrative districts were merged." "This mountain is not as high as that one, and that the mountain top is full of grapes".
山歌唱的是这爿山地与山地之间的差异。建制巩固了这种差异,而差异也反过来稳定了这种建制。岁月漫漶,这种地理上的分别,则由于各种因素的相互渗透和融汇,最终形成了文化上的分别。
The folk song sings the difference between the Pan Mountain and others mountain. The system strengthens this difference, and the difference in turn stabilizes the system. The years are indistinct, this kind of geographical differences, because of the mutual infiltration and integration of various factors, finally formed the cultural difference.
而“撤区并乡”,不仅仅是一种行政区域的重新组合,或者一种经济带的重新划分,重要的还是一种文化上的调整。
And "All administrative districts of the county were abolished and the units at the town level in the former administrative districts were merged" is not just a regrouping of administrative regions, or a rezoning of economic belts, but also a cultural adjustment.
这种文化上的调整持久而深刻,它在改革开放的大背景下,是喜?还是忧?又比如说,有一种观点,认为文明的发展最终会导致文化的终结,那么,那些原始的山村、被爱情遗忘的角落、阳光照耀不到的地方,是不是就有完整的文化形态?……
This kind of cultural adjustment is lasting and profound. Under the background of Reform and opening up, is it happiness or sadness? For example, there is a view that the development of civilization will eventually lead to the end of culture. Then, are there complete cultural forms in those primitive villages, corners forgotten by love and places where the sun cannot shine? ......
不,不,我相信一种指引,它来自心灵。理性常常给我们编制骗局,而心灵则常常把我们导向真实。何况是春天,这样的季节,无论到哪里,都不要太多的理由。
No, no, I believe there is a guide, it comes from the heart. Reason often makes up deception for us, and the heart often leads us to truth. Moreover spring, there is no reason to go anywhere in this season.
“北京”吉普轰隆着,倔强地往大山深处戳着。薄薄的云,拌着一爿太阳,均匀地抹在山野。夜里洒过微雨,空气澄明而清新。山风吹动,收着路面的水分。
"Beijing" jeep rumbled, and stubbornly driving depths into the mountains. Thin clouds, with a filmy sun, evenly spread over the mountains. The light rained at night and the air is clear and fresh. The mountain wind blew and collected the moisture of the road.
一大群雀鸟,小如拇指,大如拳,小的我叫不上来名字,大的我知道叫水丫雀。这些山野的精灵,我最初看见它们是在山脚下,一只一只跳跃着、鸣唱着,直到汽车跟前,才“扑”地一下飞起来,箭一样冲出去,落在前面的马路上,又跳跃着、鸣唱着,等汽车追上来,又欢欢地腾上天空,接着下一轮的游戏。
A large flock of sparrows, some as small as the thumb, some as big as the fist, I do not know the small one's name, but I know the big one is called water-birds. These mountains elves, I first saw them is at the foot of the mountain, one by one jumping and singing, it was not until the car was in front of it that it flew out like an arrow and landed on the road in front of it, jumping and singing, waiting for the car to catch up and happily flew up into the sky, and then next round of the game.
这么到半山腰,迎面来一辆“金土地”,满当当一车赶场的人,箩啊、筐啊,鸡啊、鸭啊……在车厢上挂着、在人头上顶着,格外有一种壮观。这时候,这些美丽的雀鸟才受惊了一样的,叽叽喳喳叫着,飞进路边一片绿绿的林子。
And so halfway up the hill, a bus came along --- we called that bus was "Golden Land", full of people, and the basket, basket, chicken, duck-- were hung on the carriages and hung on the people's heads, and there was extraordinary splendor. Just then the beautiful birds began to be startled and began to chirp and fly into the green wood’s along the road.
汽车开始走在山坡上,路上没有别的车辆,也看不见行人。倏地,一蓬嫩红跳出来,在天地间摇曳着,打破旅程的寂寞。
The car ran on the hillside. There was no other traffic on the road, and no pedestrians could be seen. Suddenly, the tender red jumped out, swaying between the heaven and earth, breaking the lonely journey.
汽车仿佛愣了一下,我看清楚那是一棵两三抱的大树,孤独地屹立在路边一爿石圪上,红红的树冠,无边无际的绿色的背景上,显着一种山野的尊严,醒示路人,这里的一切其实也是有法则的。
The car seemed to pause a moment, I clearly saw that it was a tree with two or three arms, standing alone on a heap of stones by the side of the road. The red canopy, on the endless green background, showed a kind of mountain dignity, reminded pedestrians that everything here has a rule.
这是什么树呢?我问同车两个朋友。好像叫丁木,朋友也没有把握。这树挺有意思的。我想,秋枫霜叶红似二月花,伴随着一种衰落,而春天的丁木发芽长出叶子来也红得这么可爱,与枫完全不同的,却有一种蓬勃的发展,
What kind of tree is this? I asked two people riding in the car together. They were not sure, saying it was like Ding Mu. This tree was interested. I think, autumn maple leaf is red like February's flowers, accompanied by a decline, and the spring's Ding Mu sprouted leaves to grow also lovely red, it completely different to maple, but it has a booming development.
只是枫那么有名,京城还开辟“香山红叶”一景；而丁木几乎隐姓埋名,流落在穷乡僻壤……
Just the maple tree is very famous, and the capital is also have a scene called "fragrant hill red leaf"; but Ding Mu almost incognito, and stranded in the boondocks........
山河出现哪,我开始感觉到一种穿越。天籁悠扬,光芒四射,时空裂着一条缝,我从这里走下去,回到从前,回到故土。
I began to feel I had traveled to ancient times, when the mountains and rivers appeared. All kinds of voices in nature are fluctuating and continuous, but in perfect harmony, like a strong light shining in all directions, time and space cracked a gap; I walk down from here, back to the past and back to my homeland.
小河上有座小凉桥,小凉桥上有一个小娃儿,小娃儿两只眼睛望着小河上。河中间有一些毛谷草绾着鹅卵石砌着一道堤,这堤截着一道水,这水流过岸边一道渠,哗啦啦地冲着水车,水车咿咿呀呀的,带着一盘沉重的碾子转了起来。
There was a litter cool bridge on the river and had a child in the bridge. The child's eyes are looking at the river. In the middle of the river was a bank of setaria viridis coiled around a cobblestones embankment, which cut off the river, and the water ran through a channel along the bank and clattered at the waterwheel, the water cart friction issued by the gurgling sound, with a plate of heavy roller turned up.
碾房对岸是几架筒车,也咿咿呀呀的,把节节竹筒一一地扎在水里,又一一地舀起水来,举到高处,倒进一丘一丘水田里。On the other side of the workshop were several cylinder wheels, also by the gurgling sound, one by one throw the bamboo tubes into the water, and one by one scooping up the water. Lifting it to the high place and pouring it into the paddy fields.
这是涪洋,去黄都路上的一个小镇,我不知道它和生养我的那个小镇有什么区别。在乡街旁边,看见两匝黑粗粗的电缆,问县政府办公室的小杨,才知道要弄到一个更边远的乡场安装程控电话。This is Fuyang, a small town on the way to Huangdu. I don't know the difference between it and the town where I was born and raised. On the side of the township street, I saw two thick black cables and after I asked Xiao Yang of the county government office, I just realized that this is to get a remote rural area to install a program-controlled telephone
我没有感到惊诧,契诃夫说过,大狗叫,小狗也要叫。只是呢,快到黄都哪,经过灵官店,我倒着实吃了一惊。山弯里,几十幢瓦房,差不多都四立三间的,只是年代久远哪,表黑色,呼呼地排到半山坡,格外有一种严整。
I'm not surprised, because Chekhov said that when the big dogs barking, the little dogs also barking[2]. However, as soon as I got to Huangdu, I passed the Lingguandian. I was really surprised. In the bend of the hill, and dozens of tiled houses, almost all four or three, only it was with age, the surface was black, until the hillside, and there was a particularly strict.
到黄都镇,我才听镇的领导说,灵官店又叫杉风村———多么好的名字,松风,松涛,给人一种雅韵,一种崇高。而杉风呢,尽管与名人雅士没有那么宽的缘分,缺少一种气派,但它却朴拙而畅快,是山里人的写照。
To the town of Huangdu, I heard the town leader's said, Lingguandian is also called Shanfeng village. What a good name! The wind of the pine grove and the billows of the pine grove, given some people a kind of elegant charm and noble. And the wind of fir grove, although did not have so much fate with celebrity elegant person, and lack a kind of style. But it is simple and carefree: it is the portraiture of hill dweller.
读者诸君可以想象,在一个又偏僻又遥远的角落,几个人围着北京炉,吃着啤酒鸭 ,唠嗑着北约轰炸南斯拉夫,那是怎样的一种滋味啊。
Readers can imagine how it felt to be in a remote corner, several people surrounded by the Beijing stove and ate Beer Ducks, chatting about NATO's bombing of Yugoslavia.
我那时候就想,“拿来主义”真好,啤酒鸭到了黄都；而黄都的麻鸭、薇菜什么的,也走了出去,这么“拿来”“拿去”,从物质到精神,连美国总统那顶乌纱也可以拿来过一把瘾,不是吗?“我要是克林顿的话……”有人这样说。
At that time I thought, ''Introduced foreign advanced science and technology'' is really good, Beer Duck was introduced to Huangdu; Huangdu's Shelduck, Osmunda and so on, also went out, so "introduced" and "output", from material to spirit, even showed a strong interest in the name of the President of the United States. Isn't it? Someone said, "If I were Clinton..."
乡里乡亲的,又在酒桌子上,说话对了头哪,就可以把这个世界瓜分,把所有麻烦事情搞定。我找不到这种感觉,这是我的悲哀。
We were neighbors, and now we were drinking at the same table, and when we talked about it together, we could divide up the world and get everything done. But I can't find this feeling, this is my sadness.
任何事情,只要功利隐藏在后面,纵使身在其中,那人不过是一个看客,最多也不过是一个过客。何况呢,我也还要往前走,要去丝棉,要去白鹤,镇下面的管理区,管理区下面的村。还是一种针式走法,县是针鼻子,村是针尖。
Anything, as long as there is utility hidden behind, even if you are in it, that you are only a spectator, and at most is a traveler. What's more, I also want to continue to move forward, to the town below the management area - Simian, and management area below the village - Baihe.
我常常听基层的朋友说,上头千条线,下头一根针,从针鼻子走到针尖,哪怕走马观花,也应该是很有意思的。
Still a kind of needle type walk, county is needle nose, village is needle tip. I often hear my friends at the grass-roots level say that the top thousand lines, the next one needle, from the nose of the needle to the tip of the needle, even if give a hurried and cursory glance at it, it should be very interesting.
丝棉一条独肠子街。吉普车走到场中间,正要岔到一条泥泞的马路上,往白鹤去。而忽然间,一阵沉浊的锣声,从场口那头传来。仿佛有一种感应,吉普车一顿,我就看见一群人拥着一个人走来。
Simian is a one-gut street[3]. The jeep came to the middle of the field, and was about to turn onto a muddy road to the Baihe. Suddenly, a dull gong sounded from the other end of the field. As if there was a special feeling, the jeep stopped for a moment and I saw a crowd of people coming in a crowd around a man.
那人蓬头垢面,颈项挂一块牌子,上面写着“惯偷犯”某某某,手提一面锣,一边敲着,一边喊着,说自己如何狗屎。“文革”中,这叫“游街”,而更远一些,比如“袍哥人家”,这叫“潲皮”。
he man was unkempt, with a sign on his neck that said "habitual thief" and his name, and he was beating a gong in his hand and Shouting how bad he was. In the Cultural Revolution, this is called "Parade", but there has another meaning in other places, that is lose one’s face.
县政府办公室的小杨很敏感 ,问我怎地看这件事情。我说不清楚,只是私下里觉得这是一个复杂的问题。黑格尔老人说,“存在的 ,即是合理的”。
TXiao Yang was very sensitive and asked me what I thought of it. I don't know exactly, but but I think it is a complicated problem in private. Hegel said, "What is rational is actual and what is actual is rational."
中国社会,从上至下,就依靠一个“理”,虽也混乱,有一种恶性循环,却也支撑几千年。到了今天,“依法治国”,而万事开头难,确也有一个过程。那么法律健全的美国,尚且还有一个“无法无天”的牛仔时代……
Chinese society, from the top to the bottom, has relied on one principle. Although it was chaotic and like a vicious circle, it lasted for thousands of years. At present, "rule of law", and all things are difficult at the beginning, so there should be a process. Even in America, where the law is sound, there was a cowboy era of lawlessness...
我到了白鹤才知道“白鹤”其实叫“百合”。无论是一种鸟,还是一种花,都很美。难怪自号“南椿主人”的,劫后余生,万念俱灰 ,嘉庆二年回到这里,要建一个世外桃源。
When I arrived at the Baihe, I realized that "Baihe[4]" was actually called "Baihe[5]". Whether it is a kind of bird or a kind of flower, it is very beautiful. No wonder called himself "south chun master", after the disaster lives and all despair, he came back here in Jiaqing[6] two years, to build a paradise.
我看南椿主人的故宅,正堂偏屋,梁柱上刻写着副副联子,门头上雕画着幅幅图案,都很讲究,很精致。只是年深月久,已经显着暗淡。
I saw the old house of "south chun master", a few pairs of couplet were engraved on the beam column of front room and side room, and a lot of designs were being carved on the head of the door, very exquisite and delicate. But as the years go on, they have grown dim.
而院坝里,花墙下面两只石水缸,凿着南椿主人一段诗文,一些字已经剥蚀,看不大清楚,大意是追昔思今,找着人生的真正乐趣哪。
And in the courtyard, two stone water urns below the flower wall, chisel a paragraph of poem from "south chun master", a few words were worn away and it’s not quite clear, the general meaning is recall the past and think now, and find the real pleasure of life.
“达则兼济天下,穷则独善其身”,南椿主人跌宕的命运是最好的说明。但南椿主人毕竟不是陶渊明,不会“蓄素琴一张,无弦,每酒适,辄抚弄以寄其意”。"
Troubled, improve yourself; valued, improve the world.'' The fate of the "south chun master" is the best explanation. But "south chun master" is not Tao Yuanming, he won't "collect a Guqin[7] that does not have string, and every time when I drink to the most suitable time, play Guqin and entrust your emotions to it."
即使隐逸,他也忘不掉自己的角色,还建“文化阁”倡导学风,号称“云可齐”,其实也还是在俗世界里挣扎。所以,弄到后来,弟兄反目成仇,给他凑着大门口立一幢房子,把风水断哪。
Even if he lived in seclusion, he could not forget his role. He also set up a "cultural pavilion" to advocate the style of learning, known as "Yun keqi". In fact, he was still struggling in the vulgar world. After that, he turned against his brothers and his brothers built a house near his house's gate to break the Feng shui.
两百年过去,这些建筑如果在城里,我想一定会作为文物保护起来。只是生在百合,穷乡僻壤,没有拨款,也很少有人来参观。
Two hundred years later, if these buildings were in the city, I think they will be protected as cultural relics. But in Baihe, in a remote and backward place, there was no money and few people were come to visit.
百合的人们大约还记着这个故事,一边砍倒三棵古老的楠木,卖一万多块钱,修起来一所学校,一边又一家一户地集资,筹起来两千多块钱,抢救风雨飘摇的“文化阁”……
The Baihe's people still remember this story, while felled three ancient Nanmu[8], sell more than ten thousand Yuan to build a school, while each family to raise more than two thousand Yuan to rescued the ruined "cultural pavilion"...
这么走一遭,末了走到头哪。向晚时分,车子开始往回赶。只是过黄都坝,司机不原路返回,选了一条没有走过的路往回赶。
After such a journey, we came to the end. Towards evening the car began to turn back. Just over the Huangdu dam, the driver did not return to the original road, and chose a road that had not been passed back.
这样,我又感觉一种圆的存在,虽然走过的路往回赶,但仍然保持着新鲜感,出门在外,这一点很重要。盘山公路九曲十八弯,吉普车隆隆地直往上冲。
In this way, I feel the existence of a circle again. Although I have walked a long way back, I still feel fresh. It is important to go out. The winding mountain road curved and the jeep rumbled upward.
凭着一种直觉,我知道这是大娄山的主脉。在不断的升腾中,我一颗心揪得紧紧的,仿佛真的要飞上天去。也不知翻了几层岩,爬了几座山,终于,吉普车歇在主峰上。
With a kind of intuition, I know this is the main vein of the Dalou Mountain. In the continuous rise, my heart clenched tightly, as if I really want to fly to the sky. I don't know how many layers of rock and mountains we climbed. Finally, the jeep rests on the main peak.
下车轻松轻松,脚踏在地上,才找着那种实实在在的感觉。这时候,回首来路,在一片蓝色的背景上,那路无踪无影,那村庄、那场镇也无踪无影,它们是被淹没哪?还是被消融哪? When getting out of the car, I felt relaxed and stepped on the ground to find the real feeling. At that moment, looking back on the road, there was no trace on that blue background. The village and the town were also no trace. Where were they submerged? Or is it being dissolved?
我一下有了一种失落,一切不过刚刚经历,却又恍若隔世的遥远。那些情景,无论美好的、亲切的,还是尖锐的、模糊的,只要我从山那边滑下去,又都陌生啊。不,不,我像一个溺水者,拼命地怕这种陌生 ,是一种灵魂的脆弱?
All of a sudden I had a kind of loss, all this was just experienced, but it seems to be far apart with our lifetime. Those scenes, whether beautiful, kind, sharp or vague, were strange to me as long as I went down the other side of the mountain. No, no, I am like a drowning person, desperately afraid of this strange feeling, this is a kind of fragile soul?
还是在急行慢行的这一天里,自己有什么东西,被那些风物人事挂住而留在那里呢?但无论胆怯,抑或爱恋,我还是想到“山的海洋”这一个很滥的比拟。而此时此刻,我却弄不明白山与海洋的区别到底在哪里。
Or stuck with all sorts of things during this day of fast and slow? But whether it is cowardice or love, I still think of the bad analogy- "sea of mountains". At the moment, I don't know the difference between a mountain and an ocean.
面对这一片山地,谁能够量出来她的包容?因为这种宽广和深厚,岁月悠悠,宠也罢,辱也罢,她都那么从容而宁静,谁又看出来她激荡多少喜悦,又消解多少污浊?
Facing this mountainous area, who can understand her tolerance? Because of this broad and deep, no matter how long the past, love or shame, she is so calm and quiet, who can see how much joy she brought, and how much pollution purification?
而正是这种胸襟,使她透着一种自信,跟着时代走着。不浮躁,不迟钝,也并不落下多少,谁又没有感觉她的希望和力量 ……
And it is this kind of mind, just let her show a kind of self-confidence, keep pace with The Times. No impetuous and stupid, no worse than others, who did not feel her hope and strength...
下山哪,我在朦胧中又看见那一群鸣唱的雀鸟。 (1999)
Down the hill, I sleepily saw again a flock of singing birds. (1999)
